Safari and Sustainability Reverie at Singita Ebony Lodge

The smell of bloodied flesh rises into the warm morning air – the stench is raw, stomach-churning, offensive. A pride of lions feast on the remains of a giant hippo. It looks like a crime scene. The leader of the pride stares at me as we reverse out of the bush; amber eyes glowing, eerily transfixed on my every move. Unnerved, I slide slowly onto the middle seat as I watch her stalk over her great prize.

We set off in search of an elusive leopard and after five minutes or so, the feeling of vulnerability begins to get to me. I ask to stop for a pee break and as I stand f...