Are Gordon Ramsay’s Sky-High London Restaurants Worth the Hype?

Since Netflix released Being Gordon Ramsay, a renewed interest in the storied restaurateur has shifted swiftly from his fiery television persona back to his kitchens. The six-part series, which was filmed over the course of a year, revisits Ramsay’s rise from Michelin-trained cook to the owner of a global culinary empire. But it is his work in the city of London that now commands the most attention.

At the heart of that focus is 22 Bishopsgate, the 62-storey tower that houses not one, but multiple Ramsay concepts – a project the chef has repeatedly described as “the most ambitious” of his career. Ramsay reportedl...